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The first-growth 2005 Château Margaux (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot), a lavish fragrance of blackcurrants, velvety new saddle leather, spring flowers and spice soars from the glass.
The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Capita is a blend of fruit from the premiers crus En Ergot, Corbeaux and Combottes, supplemented—if I understood Jean-Louis Trapet correctly—by a visual selection of small-berried clusters from Petite Chapelle and Clos Prieur which are not destemmed.
Garnet red. On the nose there are scents of cherries, wild strawberries, caramel. Fresh and well balanced, good length on the palate. The grapes are handpicked, sorted and transported to the winery in small containers to avoid crushing berries and premature oxidation. They are completely de-stemmed and put into vats open stainless steel, the temperatures being controlled by thermoregulation.
Clos de la Vieille Eglise, the tiny property estate of Jean-Louis and Benoît Trocard, has an opulent bouquet with layers of ripe cassis and blueberry fruit, just showing a little more alcohol than its Pomerol peers. The palate is ripe and generous on the entry. I was expecting it to spill over into something overdone... but no. It is actually very elegant and harmonious with great depth and very fine persistence.
Château de Beaucastel Ch. Hommage À Jacques Perrin 2009 is an exceptional red wine produced in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation of the Rhône Valley, France. Crafted primarily from Mourvèdre grapes, blended with other traditional varietals, this wine pays homage to Jacques Perrin, a pioneer in the region.
The cellar in which Eric Jeanneteau raises his single wine, a beautiful red Saint-Émilion grand cru, is an unadorned building on the family estate in Saint-Étienne de Lisse. Jeanneteau varies his vinification quite a bit depending on each vintage’s conditions, and the results can be fascinating, even startling, like hearing the same symphony interpreted by different conductors. His 2015 is supple, vibrant, and alive. The cellar may be plain, but there’s a true chef d’orchestre inside.
Domaine de Cristia Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 2018 is an exceptional red wine from the renowned Rhône Valley in France. Crafted primarily from Grenache grapes, sourced from old vines, this wine exemplifies the depth and complexity of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation.
Composed of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc coming mainly from clay soils on the plateau and aged for one year in oak, 65% new, the 2015 Clos du Clocher springs forth with profound notes of crushed blackberries, black cherries and blueberry compote plus touches of iron ore, bouquet garni, beef drippings and black soil.
