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The cellar in which Eric Jeanneteau raises his single wine, a beautiful red Saint-Émilion grand cru, is an unadorned building on the family estate in Saint-Étienne de Lisse. Jeanneteau varies his vinification quite a bit depending on each vintage’s conditions, and the results can be fascinating, even startling, like hearing the same symphony interpreted by different conductors. His 2015 is supple, vibrant, and alive. The cellar may be plain, but there’s a true chef d’orchestre inside.
Composed of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc coming mainly from clay soils on the plateau and aged for one year in oak, 65% new, the 2015 Clos du Clocher springs forth with profound notes of crushed blackberries, black cherries and blueberry compote plus touches of iron ore, bouquet garni, beef drippings and black soil.
Great concentration and a previously unseen quantity of tannins characterized the wines, which possessed extraordinary aromatic intensity, freshness and precision.
The 2009 Haut-Brion is deep garnet colored and slightly closed and shy to begin, slowly unfurling to reveal sensuous notions of warm blackberries, plum preserves, mulberries and blackcurrant cordial with touches of star anise, mocha and damp soil.
Clos de la Vieille Eglise, the tiny property estate of Jean-Louis and Benoît Trocard, has an opulent bouquet with layers of ripe cassis and blueberry fruit, just showing a little more alcohol than its Pomerol peers. The palate is ripe and generous on the entry. I was expecting it to spill over into something overdone... but no. It is actually very elegant and harmonious with great depth and very fine persistence.