Punta Crena Mataossu 2013

The native Mataossu (pronounced mah-tah-OHSS-soo) dominated the vineyards of Varigotti in the 19th century, but its delicate vegetative balance provoked most winegrowers to rip out the vines in favor of less finicky grapes.

Today only three producers have wines labeled Mataossu, and the Ruffinos have assured that the other two are actually Lumassina. A chameleon of aromas and flavors, dry yet generous, a refreshing, versatile white that you'll find works well with just about anything.

The tiny village of Varigotti sits on the Mediterranean, just a few rows of houses and restaurants on a pristine beach, with its back against steep hills. Climb up into the hills and you will discover neatly terraced vineyards on the slopes and in hidden clearings further up on the peaks. The Ruffino family has been tending these vineyards for over 500 years, hardly changing a thing as they pass their knowledge and wisdom from one generation to the next. Today the estate is run by four siblings: Tommaso, the eldest, is the winemaker; Paolo is the salesman; Anna handles logistics; and Nicola helps out in the vineyards and winery.