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At the very top of the Côte de Beaune between the villages of Meursault and Puligny, a few vineyard rows abut the forest known as the Bois de Blagny. Conditions are slightly cooler due to the elevation and the proximity to these woods, and the soil is chock-full of blocks of limestone.

Scents of freshly baked bread, crisp orchard fruit, orange oil and green mango introduce the 2018 Montagny 1er Cru Les Truffières, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and chiseled wine that's taut, penetrating and intense, exhibiting striking purity and persistence. I suspect it will emerge as the finest Truffières Lorenzon has produced to date.

This wine is perfumed in brioche and baked apple, with seasonings of nutmeg and vanilla. It opens in a rich, full-bodied concentration of citrus and white peach and evolves on the palate to show structure and depth. Bright acidity lifts hints of toasted oak, maintaining a fresh and plush finish.

Plump and friendly, with tangerine, peach and nectarine notes forming the core.

Gaston Huët believed this to be the greatest of all Vouvray vineyards. With the Première Côte’s shallowest, stoniest soils, its wines often synthesize Le Mont’s intense minerality with Le Haut-Lieu’s generous texture.