France

L'Ancien comes from Jean Paul's oldest vines--hence the name of the wine--in his home village of Charnay in the southern Beaujolais. They range in age from 40 to 60 years old and are planted on slopes sporting the area's signature sandy clay-limestone soils, featuring the particular local "dorée" or "golden" limestone that is laden with iron.

One of the region's most charming yet least understood villages, Chénas in the hands of Dutraive comes off as a Morgon-Fleurie hybrid, with ample structure and gravitas supporting its inherently elegant fruit and tannin profile.