France

The 2012 is quite pale at the present time, with brilliant green highlights. The nose is well-defined and mineral. Still very young and quite elegant, this wine has yet to reveal its full complexity. However, its class already comes through in the mineral and floral aromas released when the wine is swirled in the glass.

The generic Santenay is made from old vines – 50 years of average age – is a good start. It’s quite forward – 70% whole cluster – with a lovely organic fruit spiced with cinnamon and allspice. On the palate rich and velvet with a lavish feel for a wine at this level.

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Les Hautes Brusquières (60/40 Grenache and Syrah) comes from a cooler terroir near the Mount Redon plateau and was brought up in oak tronconique tanks and demi-muids.