Ijalba Rioja Cuvee 2019

“Viña Ijalba”

Those words had been following us around Rioja like a strange echo. Their name surfaced in nearly every cellar we went to—yet the estate remained mysterious. It didn’t take long before we gave in to temptation and scheduled a visit.

 And we were blown away.

Viña Ijalba is one of the vanguard producers in Rioja—visionaries who seemingly peer into the future, then show what might be possible. They were the first in the region to achieve organic certification. They were also among the first to resurrect indigenous varieties like Graciano—they bottled the first varietal wine from the grape—as well as Maturana Tinta and Tempranillo Blanco, all at a time when Spain was turning toward international varieties like Cabernet and Syrah. 

 With its high-toned blackberry bouquet and fine-grained tannins lined with thyme and cocoa, the Viña Ijalba Cuvée was a revelation. A blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, and the once-obscure Maturana Tinta, it’s traditional in its rustic soulfulness, yet finished with a modern polish.

Ijalba’s vineyards largely rest on poor soil laid on top of ancient quarries, and receive little rainfall, which means the vines have to send roots deep underground in search of water. The dry heat of the region and lack of precipitation means low yields and small berries packed with flavor and concentration.

After harvest, the grapes are crushed by foot, which allows the winemaker to gently coax out round, smooth tannins. A two-day cold maceration is followed by ten days of fermentation and then ten months in barrel.

The result is the essence of Rioja—and definitely one not to be missed.