Paso A Paso Verdejo 2010
In order to pull off a full body a wine must have crisp acidity to prevent a flabby mess. Verdelho seems ideally suited to Spain in this regard; the Iberian sun and the concomitant heat tease out a rich complexity but being a late ripener, this variety keeps an acidity that would make you click your heels at attention if it weren't for the wine's body.
Elaborated and bottled by R.E. No. C.L.M.-408/TO (AKA Bodegas Volver), a joint venture between Jorge Ordonez and Rafael Canyizares. These are wines of great tension and contrast, bright at first and then rich in the middle, crisp at the swallow and long on the finish. Given patience such Verdelho can evolve into a nutty complexity unique to the variety.