J Wine Company Pinot Noir Nicole's Vineyard Russian River Valley 2005

Its aromas are rich, ripe and long on sweet oak, but its broad flavors, while as rich as expected, are in want of vitality, and, if a little plump and soft-leaning in terms of structure, this wine is tasty and accessible now. Tag it for drinking before much more time has passed.

This is a complicated young Pinot; and while the parts are all pretty and polished, they haven't knitted together. Voluptuous flavors of cherries, cola, spices, and cedar are wrapped into silky tannins, and the acidity is fine and brisk, but as good as the wine is, it seems unfinished, like the score to a symphony that has yet to be played. Give this until mid-2008, and it should be terrific for the next four years (92 points from Wine Enthusiast).