Jonata Wines La Fuerza de Jonata Petit Verdot 2007

The only fair way to describe the 2007 La Fuerza's appearance is impenetrable and inky. Impossibly dark and brooding aromas of black fruit, crushed blackberries, espresso roast, Asian spices, tar, powerful sanguine notes, and blueberry preserves. On the palate, the viscosity and weight of the fruit almost tips the balance, but is quickly drawn back in by the lively acidity of petit verdot. This is a linebacker of a wine; it can hit hard, but maintains high energy and surprising lightness. The formidable tannic attack that one expects from petit verdot never shows up in the 2007; instead, absurdly fine-grained and small tannins become evident throughout the mouth, creating a texture that acts as a perfect bookend, allowing one to chew and ponder the beautiful and pure black fruit that lingers on and on.

What appeared to be three tons per acre turned out to be six+ tons at harvest in some other vineyards. At Jonata, they decided early in the growing season to make a move toward continued quality and thus went about a very vigorous yield-thinning followed by an equally aggressive green drop at veraison. The resulting small yields gave them wines that are densely packed with fruit, but also alive with an invigorating tension. Even at an early stage, many of them were already mesmerizing.