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Manni is a towering, stubbly, Alpine hulk of a man with a comical cynicism about the modern wine world, as if Woody Harrelson grew several inches taller, threw on a baseball cap, and launched into a bombastic tirade in a mixture of German and Italian, grunting and sighing about Italian consumers’ tasteless appetite for insipid bulk wines.
An elegant, full-bodied white wine, greenish yellow in color; fresh fruit on the nose with a rich concentrated palate of honey and ripe apple, and hints of tropical fruit cut by refreshing acidity on the finish.
While Silvaner remains the second most planted grape (after Riesling) in Germany, it has always remained tucked in the shadows. Frank Heyden quietly makes this example from old vines, and the quality shines so brightly that all shadows disappear in a fresh, zesty, mouth-wateringly delicious wash of Silvaner-ish-ness. Juicy and floral from start to finish, this is a great example of coaxing the best from a grape.